Bannock Restaurant Review
Alison Zhou
We arrived to a full-but-not-crowded scene and were the last to leave, a few minutes after closing. It was Wednesday (Hump Day); one of my dates had just trudged through his midterm, the other in from Finch Station. Despite this and the dreary weather-my inspiration for the nicknames I have given my co-diners, Pugsley and Morticia-we left Bannock feeling rosy and warm-bellied.
When asked to describe her pumpkin soup appetizer, Morticia remarked that it felt like “being in a sauna with a warm loaf of bread and a spice merchant wafting curry into the face.” The winter greens, by contrast, were not a soup at all but a salad. Had it been presented in another format, say a bouquet or a garden, I imagine its components (sharp blue cheese, bubbly chard, crisp green apple, and a mysterious, unidentifiable nut) would’ve complemented each other just as well.
Pugsley gawked at his main. We didn’t blame him; the weird marriage of potato and white fish left us guessing what he was eating. Taking pity on his amateurish decision, Morticia shared her oyster mushroom pizza, and I my griddled pork shoulder. The pork paired well with lentils and collard greens, the sauce tangy enough to notice but not overpower. The pizza was mild and savoury. The mushrooms gave a good umami for any questioning vegetarians (me, because I lack the willpower).
As with his main, Pugsley’s dessert was a miss. The “warm sugar beet and chocolate cake” was really just a brownie. Feeling hoodwinked once again, Pugsley slammed one porky fist on the table and shrieked for more beets. Morticia’s panna cotta was “redeemingly amerzing”.
Brownstone Bistro and Bar Food Review
Tamilore Oshodi
I had been out for only ten minutes in search of the “Brownstone Bistro and Bar” but it was safe to say the raw winter breeze had already chipped well into my soul. Thankfully, I noticed it neatly tucked into the corner of Yonge and Gloucester in time for my lunch reservation. While the front came off a bit lacklustre due to the basic black frontage, the interior aimed at a contemporary or hipster vibe, with exposed brick walls, drooping chandeliers, and a faux Mona Lisa.
I started off with the “Arancino de Riso” (Sicilian cheesy rice balls) as my appetizer, and was presented with a bowl of tomato sauce that surrounded two large fried balls of cheese and rice. Sadly, the large amount of sauce overwhelmed the whole meal, completely masking the flavourful taste of the rice balls. For my main dish, I had a particularly savoury strip loin steak, rubbed in various spices and herbs, topped off with sautéed mushrooms, and served with a side of golden fries and boiled vegetables. The crisp and hand-cut fries, left with the skin on and just a drizzle of seasoning, were the particular highlight of my meal. Lastly, to top off my meal, I had tiramisu for dessert. It was elegantly presented and once it touched my mouth, a burst of light spongy goodness filled every crevice. All in all, my trip to the Brownstone Bistro and Bar was an engaging experience and—in spite of some setbacks—I’d make a second trip.
Brownstone Bistro Review
Ainsley MacDougall
If you have an affinity for large goat cheese discs, awkward service, and elaborately framed Mona Lisa reproductions, you would appreciate the Brownstone Bistro.
Taking advantage of Winterlicious, I ordered the warm goat cheese appetizer, the wild mushroom risotto, and the crème brûlée on the last day of the event. The goat cheese appetizer included some great bruschetta, but enjoying the breaded goat cheese atop a baguette slice was a bit of an experience. After googling “how to eat goat cheese breaded on bread” and other such combinations, I was still at a loss for how to eat the cheese. The main, the wild mushroom risotto, startlingly lacked any wild mushrooms or wild mushroom flavour. Perhaps my interest in mycology makes me a bit of a snob, but I don’t think you should call something a “wild mushroom” when all the mushrooms looked quite like regular button ones I could find at Burwash. I was excited for the crème brulée, which they apparently often run out of, but was disappointed with the texture. Without any bounce in the cream or any real hardness on the top, it felt more like hardened, sugary egg.
The service was decent, the server only saying a somewhat-kind word to me as he handed me the bill, though one young woman was always at hand to refill my water, which I really appreciated. Additionally, I noticed that though I had booked a reservation, they had no record of it, because I had done it online; I am at a loss for why the system exists if it doesn’t actually reserve places.
If you are interested in some decent food on Yonge near UofT, and you don’t mind staring at strange Wonder Woman wall art, Brownstone Bistro should be on your radar, though you might do better to stick to more classic menu items.
Los Colibrís Review
Tristan McGrath-Waugh
Los Colibrís, or “The Hummingbirds” in Spanish, certainly doesn’t flutter about its 220 King St West location. My friend and I were seated at a very romantic candlelit table for two, which made for many a cringe-worthy exchange of glances. However, as far as small romantic “dates” go, this one was quite a cozy spot. The servers were friendly, though a bit flustered, and offered us the wine and cocktails list. We chose water and started the meal with a plate of—not actually complimentary—guacamole with handmade tortilla and taro root chips. It was fresh, and the taro chips were a surprisingly better base than the tortilla chips. Between the two of us, we ordered the Ceviche Tradicional, the Papas Bravas, the Guarache de Pulpo, the Tesmole Rojo Cerdo, and the Tres Leches for dessert.
Each of the dishes was fresh tasting and well seasoned. However, one stood above the rest: the Guarache de Pulpo, octopus on a corn tortilla with basil jalapeño oil, squid ink, and habanero mayo, was perfect. The octopus was extremely soft, almost like a tuna steak, and the jalapeño and basil sauce filled your mouth with fresh, summer flavour and just the right amount of spice to bring you back from a bland flavourless winter. Leaning on the pricier side of things at $17, it isn’t the most student-friendly dish but does make for a great splurge. In disappointing contrast, the ceviche arrived with the same taro and tortilla chips as before, which encompassed most of the dish, and for a higher price. We returned to the cold a little penniless at a $92 total—we are students, remember—but full and warmed. All in all, the space was comfy, the food was hearty and flavourful, and the evening was a lot of fun.
Los Colibrís Winterlicious Review
Tanuj Kumar
In Toronto’s jittery nighttime, Los Colibrís maintained the energy of a gentle flame. The mosaic of peculiar Mexican wines and liqueurs captivated my gaze, set to the distant horns of son jarocho music. With impeccable service, it took little time for my dishes to arrive.
The first dish served was cod ceviche with pico de gallo, carrots, and mayonnaise, served on a crisp tostada. With a bite, soft fish and sweet lime washed over my tongue, and the crispy base collapsed as the tang of the onion and tomato melded with the cod. I’d read somewhere that the citrus was a great complement to the amino-acid-rich fish. Its splendid texture made me, for a nanosecond, forget all I knew in this world.
The second dish was chicken breast, drenched in a viscous black bean sauce. Compared to the ceviche, it had a slower start, but then became a wash of thick, savoury flavour. The juices of perfectly-done chicken blended into the bean sauce. Bite after bite, I felt flitting memories of my native cuisine tug at the back of the head. It was almost as if this dish held the same essence as the dal makhani I loved as a child.
The final dish was a prism of delicate coffee flan, cut by a sliver of dark chocolate and gently powdered with cinnamon. This was the concluding piece, but perhaps the most subdued. I have yet to experience truly amazing regional Mexican food. Yet, it’s a testament to the city’s flowering culinary potential that hummingbirds from all over flock to places like Les Colibrís where we have the opportunity to experience a small taste, moulded by the streets and atmosphere, setting us on a midnight food adventure ignited by rich flavour.
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